Visit Roanne And The Roannais: 10 Experiences To Enjoy Between Wild Loire, Starred Gastronomy, And Villages With Character.
Need a big breath of fresh air (and a healthy dose of indulgence)? Just an hour from Lyon, the Roannais region emerges as a patchwork of landscapes, flavors, and heritage gems. Here, the Loire River winds its way, the vines climb the granitic slopes, and fragrant pink briochettes come out of the oven at dawn. Ready for a getaway that truly changes the scenery?
Roanne, a human-sized crossroads in the Loire region
With a population of 35,364 recorded in 2022 and a density approaching 2,200 inhabitants per square kilometer, Roanne ticks the "convenient city" box: everything can be done on foot or by bike from the marina. In terms of access, twenty regional trains per day connect to Lyon Part-Dieu in just 1 hour and 4 minutes, making it quick and easy for a spontaneous weekend getaway!
The city also capitalizes on staycation tourism: in 2022, there were 1,509,000 overnight stays by French visitors and 673,000 by international guests, marking a double-digit increase since the post-Covid recovery.
Strolling along the tranquil quays of the Roanne to Digoin canal.
Closed off in the early 1980s, this 770-hectare body of water boasts supervised beaches, water slides, pedal boats, and orienteering trails. The spot attracted 21,718 visitors in 2023, with nearly 4,000 "Outside the Walls" activities during the summer, proving that the site offers more than just sunbathing.
A bonus: at twilight, the horizon is tinged with gold and pink, perfect for a picnic with a view of the Monts de la Madeleine hills.
Gain altitude in the Loire gorges.
In Vézelin-sur-Loire, climb up to the panoramic (and poetic) site of Pêt d'Âne: a contemplation bench overlooking the largest meander of the Loire River. Beneath your feet, kayaks and paddleboards glide over a still wild river, while in the distance, the medieval silhouettes of Saint-Jean-Saint-Maurice-sur-Loire sketch out a living postcard.
Taste the Praluline® (and other good things)
Created in 1955 by the Best Craftsman of France Auguste Pralus, the famous brioche with pink pralines is still sold warm at the Halles Diderot every morning (just follow the smell!).
For special occasions, head to "Le Bois sans Feuilles," the three-Michelin-starred address of the Troisgros family in Ouches: a sensory journey between the vegetable garden and carved wood. Remember to book, as the 30 seats go quickly.
In between meals, make your way to the Saturday market where producers from the upper Beaujolais, Forez, and Côte Roannaise share the stalls: charcuterie, fresh goat cheeses, organic vegetables... the real life.
Taste the AOC Côte-Roannaise wines.
Recognized as an AOC since 1994, this discreet vineyard spans 215 hectares situated between 350 and 500 meters in altitude, with about thirty estates working the Gamay-Saint-Romain (a native grape variety).
Here one can sip:
- Juicy reds with crunchy red fruits,
- Refreshing rosés perfect for a portside aperitif,
- And, more rarely, some traditional method sparkling wines.
The "Route des Vins" allows you to connect Renaison, Saint-Haon-le-Vieux, or Ambierle by electric bike, remember to slip an insulated bag into your backpack (yes, you always end up buying more bottles than planned).
Hiking (or cycling) on the Véloire
To the north, the gentlest section stretches 20 km between the port of Roanne and Briennon; to the south, 78 km of shared paths take you all the way to the spa town of Montrond-les-Bains.
The green-blue markers sometimes follow the canal, sometimes the raw Loire River winding through pastoral meadows. Ideal for a "micro-adventure" without a car: just take the regional train (TER) and bike.
Marvel at the Benedictine Abbey of Charlieu.
Founded in the 9th century and later affiliated with Cluny, the abbey features an exquisitely detailed Romanesque tympanum, a Gothic cloister, and a medieval garden. An audioguide is recommended to help interpret the capitals and bestiaries. Charlieu is also recognized as a "Village of Character" and one of "France's Most Beautiful Detours."
Travel back in time to Crozet, the perched medieval city
With its 16th-century ramparts, tower, and cobblestone square, Le Crozet (with a population of 282!) appears to be frozen in time. In the summer, dramatized tours bring the "golden age" of the town back to life, and in the evenings, one can sip a glass of Côte-Roannaise in the coolness of the narrow streets.
Enjoy a cultural agenda that pulses throughout the year.
From the Jazz à Villerest music festival to the contemporary exhibitions at the Joseph-Déchelette Museum, and the XXL concerts at the Scarabée, there's never a dull moment. Tourism professionals have indeed noted a hotel occupancy rate of 68% during the week (46% on weekends, a figure that has increased by 7%): proof that the destination appeals to city-breakers, and more.
Conclusion: Change the scenery... and return to it.
Sea, mountain, countryside? No need to choose: the Roannais offers a mosaic of human-sized experiences, somewhat secret but always generous. So, shall we meet at the port for an aperitif? I promise, the Loire will make you want to extend your stay.
Nota Bene
• AOC: Controlled Designation of Origin, a guarantee of a delimited terroir and regulated practices.
• MOF: Best Craftsman of France, a contest of artisanal excellence.
• Gamay-Saint-Romain: a local variety, spicier than its Beaujolais cousin.