Setouchi: The Denim, Washi, And Ceramics Trail, A Craftsmanship Side Of Japan To (re)discover

Craving a Japan off the beaten path? Set your sights on Setouchi, a lesser-known region where denim is spun, washi paper is gently crafted, and terracotta is fired in wood-burning kilns. Between the inland sea and mountains, a journey for all five senses... and for your suitcase of memories.

A setting between sea and mountains, far from the megacities.

First surprise: Setouchi is not a city but a patchwork of seven prefectures stretching over 450 km around the Seto Inland Sea. It transitions from an island dotted with olive trees to a plain filled with rice paddies, and then to a network of hills blanketed with mandarin orange trees. The result? Tourism is still low-key: 3.8 million foreign visitors in 2024, which is ten times less than Tokyo (source JNTO). Perfect for those who like to wander without the crowds.

Kojima: The Street Where Denim Lives (and Ages)

Here, one breathes in the indigo. Deprived of rice by its salty soil, the small town of Kojima consoled itself with cotton since the Edo period, before inventing Japanese jeans in the 1960s.
Today's result: Kojima Jeans Street, 400 meters of wooden shops, navy blue pennants fluttering in the wind, old weaving looms still clanking.
One stops at Momotaro to feel a raw 18 oz, then at KOJIMA GENES promising sturdy selvedge at gentle prices. In the evening, one sleeps at DENIM HOSTEL float: sea views, vat-dyed curtains, even the hangers bear a 100% cotton label...

Ozu Washi: When the Mulberry Becomes Velvet

Heading to Shikoku Island, the town of Uchiko. At the Tenjin Sanshi workshop, hands are dipped into the white pulp of the mulberry tree: washi Ozu paper is born from a few fluid motions, repeated for four centuries.
The numbers speak: a single craftsman can produce barely 300 sheets per day, compared to 10,000 on a modern machine. Yet demand does not wane; the global market for art paper grew by another 4.5% in 2025.
Here, they craft the sheets for the giant kites launched every May, repair the shoji of ryokans... and one leaves with a notebook that smells of dry grass.

Udatsu Street: Edo Architecture, Startup Spirit

In Wakimachi (Tokushima Prefecture), merchant houses display their udatsu — tall firewall gables that served as a social calling card. For a long time, the street slumbered. Then, locals opened cafes, workshops, and galleries. As a result: 20 new creative businesses since 2018, according to the municipal office. One can sip on a filter coffee while watching the Awa-ai dyeing process: dried indigo leaves, fermented, then a white scarf dipped, emerging green, turning blue in the air. A small chemical miracle... and a great souvenir to take home.

Indigo Awa-ai: The Blue That is Cultivated (and Lasts)

The Tokushima prefecture was producing 4,000 tons of indigo by the end of the 19th century; only 1% remains today. However, the industry is experiencing a revival: direct sales, participatory workshops, and orders from Parisian designers in search of natural pigments. At the Udatsu Studio of Yamauchi, one can try their hand at the technique:
- Preparation of the clay vats
- Soaking of the fabric
- Oxidation in the open air

The color transitions from emerald green to midnight blue. (Hands come out stained, but happy.)

Bizen ware: earth, fire, chance

Heading to Imbe, the cradle of Bizen-yaki pottery. No enamel, no glaze: just a clay rich in iron oxide, fired for ten days in a wood kiln. Each piece comes out marbled with red, brown, black—random imprints of the flames. Number enthusiasts will appreciate this: Bizen-yaki exports jumped by 12% in 2024, driven by the popularity of wabi-sabi in Western decor. On-site, you can try your hand at making your own bowl (be warned, it's harder than it looks), and you'll retrieve it... three months later, in time for the next firing.

Fukuoka Soy Sauce Gallery: Soy as a Canvas for Art

An old soy sauce brewery converted into a gallery? Yes, it's possible in Okayama. The Fukuoka Shoyu Gallery tells the story of fermentation — 18 months in cedar barrels — and then showcases artists who play with barrels, bacteria, and scents. Deliciously briny atmosphere. (You can even buy a vintage bottle, perfect for enhancing your tamago kake gohan at home.)

NISHIGAWA TERRACE: slow life by the water

Right bank, cedar plank flooring; left bank, strings of lanterns. NISHIGAWA TERRACE breathes new life into the center of Okayama. According to the city hall, bike and pedestrian traffic has doubled since the 2022 development. People picnic there, work remotely, attend mini-concerts... in short, they experience everyday ikigai. And it's free.

Why Setouchi Appeals to French Travelers

The hexagonal market craves authenticity: 62% of French people say they "seek out artisanal experiences" while traveling (Atout France 2025 barometer). Meanwhile, Setouchi ticks all the boxes: proximity to Osaka (1 hour by Shinkansen), controlled budget (a premium pair of jeans: €180 compared to €280 in Tokyo), and easy encounters—many workshops offer tours in English or... simply in sign language.

Practical Information & Nota Bene

Getting there: flights from Paris to Osaka starting at €650, then a JR Pass to Okayama.
Getting around: rent an electric bike (1,000¥ per day) or use the local buses.
Nota Bene: The term "selvedge denim" refers to edge-to-edge weaving that prevents fraying; wabi-sabi celebrates the beauty of imperfection; the exchange rate considered is around 1€ = 175¥ (November 2025).