Do you dream of a harmonious garden but don't know where to start? It all begins with a sheet of graph paper, a pencil, and a bit of method. Scale, elements to place, relief, paths: here’s how to draw step by step the plan of your ideal garden, also considering volume.
To create a garden plan on paper, start by accurately reproducing the outline of the land and the buildings, then place the essential elements (terrace, pond, pathways, relaxation area...) while organizing them both practically and aesthetically. Drawing a garden plan on paper remains the safest, almost academic way to achieve a quality result in a coherent whole.
While you were clearing, cleaning, and preparing the land, you surely imagined your future garden a hundred times, supported by magazines. That's great! But as long as it remains in your head, this garden remains virtual. Drawing forces you to make concrete choices and to check that everything truly fits within the available space.
Here are the main steps to build a garden plan on paper, in order:
The base plan: the perimeter of the property, the house, and other buildings, to scale.The networks: pipes, water outlets, cables, and outdoor electrical sockets.The equipment to consider: automatic irrigation, lighting, electrical supply for a remotely controlled gate. Even if the budget is tight today, it would be a shame not to have planned for them.The circulation: existing pathways, then secondary paths that connect key points.The major elements: terrace, pond, pergola, relaxation area, flower beds, vegetable garden, play area.
Before picking up the pencil, ask yourself a very down-to-earth question: who will maintain this garden, with what skills and willingness? A garden designed without considering the family's lifestyle quickly becomes a chore... and then returns to a state of neglect.
For a garden plan, the scale to use is 1/100 as soon as the land measures less than 1,000 m²: 1 cm on paper represents 1 m in the garden. In terms of support, graph paper will do, but millimeter paper is preferable, as it allows for much finer adherence to proportions.
At a scale of 1/100, calculations can be done mentally: a hedge that is 12 m long occupies 12 cm on the sheet, and a terrace that is 4 m deep takes up 4 cm. The first task is to accurately outline the property boundaries and the location of built elements (house, garage, shed...) as precisely as possible. Everything else in the plan will rely on this base drawing, so take care with it!
For the property boundaries, there’s no need to measure everything again: start from the cadastral plan, which is mandatory to be provided by the notary when purchasing a property. If the land has been marked by a licensed surveyor, the markers officially indicate the boundary with neighbors, and the boundary report is valid.
On this base plan at 1/100, also note the underground networks. Their conduits follow a very handy color code for identification: blue for drinking water, brown for sanitation, red for electricity, green for telephone, television, or internet. Note: the trunk of an isolated tree must be at least 2 m from the edge of a pipeline trench, and it is even preferable to count 3 m for a tree less than 10 m tall and 5 m for larger species.
Creating a garden plan without knowing how to draw is entirely possible: you don't need to be a pencil artist; a simple sketch on paper is already a valuable tool. It is often believed that the garden plan is the exclusive domain of the landscaper, but the exercise is not daunting at all.
Transferring the outlines of the house and the boundaries of the property is not complicated, especially on graph paper. And the exercise has an unexpected advantage: it allows you to see your property from a broader perspective, which is rarely possible when you're focused on the flower beds.
If drawing really intimidates you, work directly on the ground. For a straight line, stretch a string between two stakes; for a curve, simply lay a garden hose on the ground and adjust it until the shape pleases you. By moving strings and stakes, you can visualize the flower beds in full scale and modify the distribution of volumes before transferring everything to your sheet.
And what about the computer? There are garden design software programs (paid, downloadable) that create a plan, sometimes in 3D, based on your measurements: they take into account the sun's orientation, soil type, and region, show what plants will look like when mature, and even simulate the garden through the seasons. For a non-professional, these programs mainly serve as playful aids and sources of inspiration: fully utilizing them (especially for material selection) can be quite challenging, and you must be prepared to spend a lot of time in front of the screen experimenting.
On a garden plan, the first elements to place are the house, the center of the entire property, followed by built elements: terrace, pond, paths, stairs, pergola, relaxation area, barbecue corner. These are the ones that structure the space; the plantings will come later to dress the whole. Before positioning them, identify poorly exposed areas in spring: as the sun is lower than in summer, the shadow of the house extends much further, and these spots will be more suitable for mineral elements and shade plants like ferns and hostas.
The terrace should be placed as close to the house as possible. Its perimeter benefits from being slightly concealed by generous vegetation, for privacy and to block the wind in exposed areas. Also plan for the location of a beautiful tree: in three to four years, it will shade this outdoor dining area.
The pond is typically designed in the lowest part of the land, where water would naturally flow. Choose an accessible spot, relatively clear, visible from the house or terrace (essential for monitoring young children, with a protective barrier in this case), ideally facing west to enjoy about six hours of gentle sunlight per day. In terms of size, 2 m² is a minimum, and a pond of 15 to 50 m² is truly perfect.
The relaxation area and pergola require a bit of cleverness. Draw the bench slightly off the axis of the path: the relaxation corner seems secluded, revealing itself at the last moment, allowing one to sit and see without being seen. Arbors, pergolas, pavilions, or gazebos nicely structure these spots (a pergola also helps soften a house without particular charm), and in a very small garden, simple flower beds are enough to delineate the relaxation area.
To organize a garden in a harmonious and coherent way, the guiding principle is simple: do not scatter. The plan should outline the skeleton of the garden, like a puzzle where each piece (planting masses, terrace, pond, paths, stairs, pergola...) connects logically and aesthetically with the others.
Everything revolves around the house, the central element that the garden highlights like a green setting. This is especially true since the average size of a French garden is less than 500 m². The smaller the area, the simpler the layout should remain, with straight geometric lines that create an optical illusion of perspective and visually enlarge the space.
A proportional trick greatly contributes to the harmony of a garden: give the beds, paths, terrace, or pond dimensions that relate to the openings of the house. If your French doors are 1.80 m wide, work with, for example, 60 cm (one-third), 90 cm (half), 1.80 m, and their multiples. It’s a simple detail, but it gives the whole a real unity.
The final criterion for coherence is the placement of the beds. Round or bean-shaped forms placed in the middle of the lawn often seem incongruous, whereas a successful bed dresses, extends, or highlights a fixed element (tree, hedge, wall, building, or path). Finally, remember that the success of a garden depends on the logic and practicality of the layout, even before its aesthetics.
To separate the vegetable garden, the dining area, and the play space, divide the property into autonomous entities: each should have a certain independence and a distinct character while logically fitting into the overall layout of the garden. This is undoubtedly the most challenging exercise in the plan, especially if one wants to add an artistic touch.
In practical terms, a garden is divided between ornamental elements (flower beds, lawn, rock garden, pond) and utility spaces (terrace, relaxation or dining area, vegetable garden, orchard, herb garden). These pieces of the puzzle are connected by paths, walkways, or stairs, ensuring passage from one to another.
The vegetable garden should remain easily accessible, and the herb corner benefits from being directly linked to the kitchen by a path. The dining area, on the other hand, is happily situated on the terrace, sheltered by generous vegetation that preserves the family's privacy.
The children's space deserves a dedicated area, with a play corner (play structure, sandbox...) and a small cultivation spot for their first gardening experiences: radishes, salads, possibly tomatoes, herbs, strawberries, and a mix of fast-growing wildflowers. Design it all with rounded shapes, using materials that are pleasant to the touch and minimizing sharp angles, and banish toxic, irritating, or thorny plants.
Thinking of a garden in volume and 3D means considering its lines, but also its volumes, textures, and colors: a garden cannot be read on a flat plan. The main difference between a field and a garden lies in the way the third dimension is occupied, with planting heights, constructions, and terrain that catch the eye at every moment.
The relationship between the house and the garden sets the tone. If the length of the garden is less than three times the height of the dwelling (a very common case), there is no point in seeking a perspective towards the facade, which already occupies most of the decor. It is better to blur it right from the entrance with a small tree of graceful stature: Japanese maple, Chinese dogwood, weeping sophora, Chinese virgil or soap tree. In small gardens, also avoid trees whose tops would exceed the ridge of the roof, and create breathing spaces with low plants and grassy areas.
To give volume without completely disrupting everything, focus on so-called architectural plants: isolated trees and shrubs, naturally imposing or trimmed into geometric shapes, the topiaries. Two Ilex crenata shaped like clouds are enough to add relief to a flat little garden. In the flowerbeds, vary the heights and contrast the silhouettes: a tousled tuft next to a compact ball, a sprawling plant beside an upright subject, a spherical shape with a pyramid or a drooping form.
Textures complete the picture: the airy fineness of gypsophila, the lace of ferns, the roughness of blue thistle, the velvet of bear's ears... By contrasting them, each plant stands out better. Regarding colors, always group 3 to 10 subjects of the same variety or shade to form patches of 1 to 3 m²; the effect is much stronger than a cacophonous mix.
To shape the terrain of a garden and create relief, the simplest method is to raise a bed by 30 to 50 cm (no more) with a small wall, railway sleepers, or a wattle fence. Another technique is to lower the level of the lawn to highlight the terrace, then use the excavated soil to form mounds that immediately elevate the plantings.
A small structured garden can thrive on perfectly flat ground. In contrast, a plot larger than 800 m², especially a garden inspired by nature, does not fare well with a uniform surface. Relief then gives authenticity to an irregular layout: flower beds and paths follow the slopes and use them to enhance their appearance.
Shaping the terrain means acting as earth movers before any planting. Soften overly steep slopes by elongating their profile, vary the angle of movements and the radius of curves ("Boredom comes from uniformity," wrote Antoine de La Motte-Houdar), and respect the logic of nature by always placing the water feature in the lowest part. Leveling can be done with a shovel and wheelbarrow, but a microtractor equipped with a leveling blade or a loader, which are easy to rent, makes the work much more practical.
For a raised bed, 80 cm is the maximum, and at this height, it is better to work in two tiers. From 50 cm of wall height, one can cultivate completely above ground, which also allows those who struggle to bend down to garden. Nota bene: a wattle fence is a border made of woven willow or chestnut branches. Bricks, stones, or sleepers are also suitable, provided they harmonize with the path surfaces.
To lay out the paths of a garden and ensure good circulation, first connect the key points: entrances from the house and garage to the public road, kitchen to the herb corner, easy access to the vegetable garden and tool shed. Since the primary role of paths is utilitarian, limit their number to avoid a labyrinth effect (except in a small garden, where a somewhat complicated network extends the journey and makes the property appear larger).
On the plan, give each path a width suitable for its use:
Main paths: 1 to 2 meters wide, with a hard surface to stay dry in all weather, suitable for a lawn mower or wheelbarrow.Secondary paths: 80 cm to 1.20 m, allowing two people to pass without hindrance (paving is not mandatory).Walkways: at least 20 cm, ideally between 40 and 60 cm, made of compacted earth or covered with 1 to 3 cm of sand, gravel, or pine bark.Stepping stones: slabs spaced 60 to 70 cm apart, simply placed on sand.
In terms of design, a straight path should form an angle between 45 and 90 degrees with flower beds or structures: too sharp an angle complicates the passage of a mower or shredder, while too open an angle complicates maintenance and encroaches on the space of the flower beds. A slightly off-center path does not reveal the entire garden at once, which is a valuable trick in very small gardens. For harmony, take the width of the gate as a standard: with a 3 m gate, paths of 0.50 m, 1 m, and 2 m go well together, just like 0.75 m, 1.50 m, and 2.25 m (without mixing the two series).
To transfer the plan to the ground, stretch a string for straight lines and lay a hose for curves, then cut with a spade or edging tool. In a large garden, mark the dimensions of the plan every 80 cm or so with wooden stakes connected by strings. In terms of materials, prioritize those sourced from your region (cheaper and better integrated) and do not combine more than two materials or colors on the same path.
Creating your own garden plan is entirely possible, but hiring a landscaper remains a good solution if you're lacking inspiration or time, or if you want to avoid mistakes in choosing plants. The main benefit of a landscaper is to save you from design errors that can become quite costly once the work begins.
A landscaper is also valuable for solving a tricky technical problem or giving a particular style to the garden. Moreover, not everyone has the gift of envisioning: everyone knows what they don’t like, but knowing how to change it is another matter!
A reasonable approach is to request a design project from two or three companies. This service is chargeable if you don’t assign them the work, but it will definitely provide interesting ideas and ultimately save you a lot. Conversely, drawing your own garden plan allows you to better understand your property and view it as a whole.
Since it is rarely possible to complete the entire garden at once, the plan also serves as a roadmap: start with the area closest to the house, prioritizing the facade and access points, then focus on the surroundings of the terrace. In summary: a base plan at 1/100 on graph paper, with networks and shaded areas marked, major elements placed, distinct spaces connected by logical pathways, and a relief designed in volume. Take out a sheet of paper and a pencil... your ideal garden starts there.
Author Audrey on 05 October 2022
Home and Garden : Garden
Author Audrey on 31 July 2023
Home and Garden : Garden