From December 5, 2025, to March 8, 2026, the Jacobins Church transforms into a time machine: 250 works, prestigious loans, and all the splendor of Versailles are invited to the banks of the Garonne to tell the story of Agenais during the Age of Enlightenment.
30,000 visitors flocked to see Goya in 2019; the City of Agen is at it again with French Lights: from the Court of Versailles to Agen, labeled as an "Exhibition of National Interest."
The challenge? To present a dazzling panorama of the years 1715-1789, when the Agen region became part of the grand narrative. Against a backdrop of agricultural and riverine prosperity, the area then served as a link between Bordeaux, Toulouse, and Paris.
The exhibition promises a lively narrative on a human scale, where one will encounter royal portraits as well as the early sparks of the Encyclopedist spirit.
Everything begins in 1775 with the banishment of Duke Emmanuel-Armand d'Aiguillon, former minister of Louis XV. His relocation to Aiguillon (30 km from Agen) brings with him a "French" way of life: concerts, theater, art collections...
The neighborhood is transformed. Historians estimate that in just ten years, the local land value increased by nearly 15%, reflecting an elite investing in private mansions and factories.
The exhibition follows this thread to explain how political exile becomes a cultural and economic engine.
The figure is striking: more than 250 pieces, including about ten coming straight from Versailles, the Louvre, or the National Library of France (BnF). Paintings, marble busts, topographic gouaches, furniture... the curatorial effort brings together the Museum of Fine Arts of Agen and two experts from Versailles. This significant loan is part of the national strategy for the dissemination of collections, reminding us that in Versailles only 10% of the 60,000 works are on permanent display. For the people of Agen, it's a unique opportunity to see, without taking the TGV, the Bust of Alexander the Great (Girardon) or the portrait by Van Loo of the all-powerful Duke of Choiseul.
Exhibition poster, the "Portrait of Madame du Barry as Flora" painted by François-Hubert Drouais (1773-1774) captivates all eyes. Beneath its silky pastoral veneer, the painting conceals a political statement: the former favorite of Louis XV presents herself as a garden deity, far from the intrigues of the court. Surrounding this centerpiece, the audience will discover portraits of Mesdames Sophie and Adélaïde, daughters of Louis XV, as well as a rare "View of the Château de Véretz" signed by Van Blarenberghe. These milestones collectively recapture the late Rococo aesthetic and the shift towards Neoclassicism.
Sound design, soft lighting, large print labels: the museum focuses on accessibility.
- Nocturnes every Thursday until 9 pm
- Tactile tours for the visually impaired
- Workshops for young audiences during each holiday period
Families can even step into the shoes of a courtier through role-playing games centered around portraits. According to attendance forecasts, the exhibition could generate an economic impact of €200,000 for the local hospitality and catering industry, a nice boost during the off-season.
Designated a historical monument since 1904, the Jacobins Church has witnessed eight centuries of upheavals. Once a Dominican convent, then a revolutionary barracks before becoming an exhibition hall (1990), the vessel of brick and limestone soars to a height of 26 meters under its vaulted ceiling. Its previous significant exhibitions, such as "From Fortuny to Picasso" or "Goya," have demonstrated that the venue can comfortably accommodate 800 visitors per day without batting an eyelid. This time, the nave will host a U-shaped circuit, punctuated with interactive modules, secure balustrades for busts, and a "Salon of Enlightenment" recreating the ambiance of a cabinet of curiosities.
Founded in 1876 and housed in four mansions, the museum will close in 2026 for three years of renovations. French Lights thus serves as a grand finale before the construction begins. The masterpieces will remain accessible but will be rotated in the church, which is good to know for tourists planning a visit post-2026. Ultimately, the institution aims to increase its capacity by 40% and to completely rethink the chronological journey, with the region's acknowledged role in the 18th-century Atlantic trade woven throughout.
80 km to the north, La Brède is the birthplace of Montesquieu in 1689. His ideas on the separation of powers quickly spread through the salons of Agen. In 1776, the Academic Society of Agen was founded; it will therefore celebrate its 250th anniversary in 2026. The archives reveal that a third of its first members were traders active on the Garonne, evidence of an enlightened capitalism where commerce and knowledge go hand in hand. The exhibition displays manuscripts, allegorical busts, and urban planning maps to bear witness to this effervescence, heralding the major reforms of 1789.
The program surrounding the exhibition plays the card of the total experience:
- Reconstruction of a costume ball (powdered wigs required!)
- Unique concert featuring music from the Aiguillon library
- Sweet and savory buffet inspired by the recipes of Carême, the court pastry chef
- Museotherapy sessions with an art therapist, a first in Lot-et-Garonne
All of which extends the visit into a sensory experience and, perhaps, a slow one.
Studies show that a 90-minute cultural session reduces average cortisol levels by 25%, an undeniable health argument to convince the hesitant.
Dates: December 5, 2025 to March 8, 2026
Hours: daily 11 am-7 pm (except Dec. 25 and Jan. 1)
Rates: 12 euros full, 6 euros reduced, free under 10 years
Guided tours: 15 euros adult, 8 euros reduced, reservation recommended
Access: Jacobins Church, Richard the Lionheart Street. The SNCF train station is a 12-minute walk away; Gravier & Jacobins parking lots nearby.
Remember to book your guided tour slots online: the number is limited to 20 people to ensure reading comfort and... the fragile gilding of the Louis XVI frames.
January-February usually represent the low tourist season in the Southwest; hotels post occupancy rates around 45%. With French Lights, the Tourist Office is counting on an 18% increase in overnight stays. Another advantage: gastronomic specialties (protected geographical indication prunes, Buzet wines) are best enjoyed by the fireside. Pairing the exhibition with a slow food tour offers a balanced stay, away from the summer crowds, while supporting a local economy that employs 12% of the workforce.
According to Atout France, every euro invested in a major exhibition generates an average of 4 euros in additional revenue. The City of Agen, the Nouvelle-Aquitaine Region, and private patrons are therefore betting big, with a budget of about 1.8 million euros. The barely concealed goal: to position the destination on the map for cultural city-breaks within two hours of Bordeaux or Toulouse. A full-scale test before 2026, the year that will see the museum close and... the Olympic flame reignite the desire for French culture everywhere.
The Rococo (1720-1760) is characterized by its sinuous curves, pastels, and gallant scenes. The Neoclassicism (from 1760) prefers order and references to Antiquity, spurred by the excavations of Pompeii. Between the two? A pivotal period that the exhibition illustrates wonderfully. As for the term "Enlightenment," it does not refer to lamps but to the idea of reason: enlightening minds through science, philosophy, and... the arts. A useful nuance to fully enjoy each room.
Author Audrey on 07 March 2022
Art and Culture : Collection
Author Audrey on 28 July 2021
Art and Culture : Museums